Reality Check

Nicaraguan Government Invests in San Juan del Sur

Nestled in a beautiful cove on the Pacific coast near the Costa Rican border is San Juan del Sur, at one time a small fishing village but presently undergoing a transformation into a well- known tourist destination in Nicaragua.

Getting there from Mangua, the capital city of Nicaragua, takes about 3 hours. Most of the travel is along the Pan American highway, a single lane road which connects the Central American countries, from Guatemala in the north all the way to Panama in the south. However, once you turn off the main highway, the last 18 kilometers takes about 45 minutes on a road which looks and feels like an off-road zone for motorcycles.

Thankfully, the national tourism office of Nicaragua has finally realized that to bring in tourism revenues to San Juan del Sur(SJDS), you have to get the people there. So this year, after several bridges were washed out during the rainy season and vehicles had to play ‘chicken’ every time they negotiated the potholes, big improvements are being made in SJDS and surrounding area.

The town of several thousand people is undergoing a huge facelift, especially in the downtown. The streets are being dug up, and replaced with rough asphalt suitable for a hot climate. Certain streets are being paved with flat stones. New tourist-related businesses are opening and the beachfront restaurants are improving their facades. It’s been a noticeable change in the past year, ever since the new Daniel Ortega government decided that San Juan del Sur would become part of the long term investment plan for Nicaraguan tourism. It may be no coincidence also, that SJDS is a safe seat for Ortega’s Sandanista government.

Living in Granada, Nicaragua in February, 2008

Living in Granada, Nicaragua is a pleasant experience. Average daily temperatures are about 30° C and there is usually a breeze coming off Lake Nicaragua. This part of the world gets around 300 days of sunshine each year. It’s a good place to spend the winter.

The people are friendly at every turn, and there’s not a day that goes by that someone, usually more than one person, gives you a smile even if you refuse the vendor’s cashews, or the currency exchanger or the women carrying fruit trays on their heads.

It seems that everyone is a vendor as we thread our way along the Calle Commercial each day for our breakfast. This is the open market where you can find just about anything you need. The street is so crowded with people that the big buses can hardly drive by.

Once off the market street, you can enter what’s left of the indoor market palladium, circa 1930, where there are rows and rows of vendor stalls, and wares that can be bargained for. And unlike the souks say of Tunisia and Turkey, the Nicaraguans are really laid back, eating their snacks and visiting the other vendors while they work, almost oblivious to the 4 curious Canadian tourists passing by.

For many of the locals, the market is where they endure, either to sell, barter or buy the goods they need. Prices are low, and there are enough meats, fruit, vegetables, pastries, drinks, poultry, eggs, and herbs to feed even the largest family. Last week we watched a 12 year old boy carrying a squealing pig under his arm, perhaps under instructions from his father to get as many cordobas( 18.8 = $1.) as he could muster at the market, but unknowingly giving practical meaning to the nursery rhyme which begins: “this little piggy went to market.”

Economic Activity and Tourism in Guatemala

Our first glimpse of the physical features of this country came during a Guatemala City tour when we viewed a three dimensional map about the size of a small children’s playground. From our vantage point about thirty feet on a platform the most obvious thing about the topography was the ubiquitous mountain ranges in the country.

Our tour guide pointed out that about 70% of the country is mountainous, including 32 volcanoes, several of which are still active. The fascinating part about Guatemala is how the physical features really determine the settlement and growth patterns in the country. The principles of economic geography are at the heart of this evolution.

Firstly, the mountain ranges are not conducive to agriculture since the rich volcanic material of the ice ages has taken the best agricultural soil into the valleys between the mountains so this is where the crops are planted. Many of the homes take advantage of the rich soil near the bottom and form sloped terraces where the soil is above average and rain water is more plentiful.

Crops of all kinds are grown including: onions, tomatoes, herbs, sugar cane, bananas, pineapples, citrus, and grains, in just about every location that is capable of agricultural output.

So, in a mostly agricultural society, farmers predominate and people around them produce/import other goods like clothing, footware, furniture, hardware, housewares, crafts and other goods that people need for day to day living.

The tourist trade is an added part of this equation since tourists bring discretionary dollars to a needy population.

The effect of increased numbers of tourists brings more wealth to the region but if there are too many tourists the net effect is an increase in prices for the locals as well.

Craft vendors in Antigua, a well developed, colonial tourist town near Guatemala, are mostly Mayan natives with little disposable income. They are faced with long rides from their poorer neighbourhoods in order the sell to tourists on the streets. Most will never be able to afford to open a business in Antigua so they are relegated to an inferior status on the streets, even though their goods may be of reasonable quality and offered at a fair price.

Essentially, there are fewer vendors on the streets of Antigua, since the tourists are attracted to the fancy shops and boutiques owned by companies of all sizes.

So, the dilemma for government tourist promoters is to ensure that the local vendors and market stall operators continue to benefit from the tourism dollars. By excluding them in towns like Antigua, they and their families will not benefit from more tourism.

As often happens, initiatives like tourism development that give the poor a boost in the beginning, end up being circumvented and gradually provide more revenue for those who least need it, the already well-heeled business types.

A balance must be struck to get the money moving downwards to those in society who need it the most.

Shortage of Electricity on Costa Rican Pacific Coast

The Pacific coast of Costa Rica has witnessed rapid tourism growth in the past 5 years, so much so that coastal villages like Playa del Coco cannot handle the influx of tourists especially during peak times.

Five years ago tourists, particularly from Canada and the United States purchased small condos and lofts for as low as $35,000- only minutes from the ocean. Today those same properties are listed for sale at $75,000 and more, effectively doubling the original sale prices.

We were offered a two-bedroom condo in a three-year-old building for $125,000, complete with courtyard swimming pool and 24-hour security service. Purchase price three years ago we found out was approximately $35,000!

Price increases like this illustrate the snowball effect of rapid speculation, and the desire of many to produce a profit by simply buying a property and waiting for it to appreciate in value.

The Playa del Coco area has been built on speculation and lots of it. There are huge numbers of absentee landlords, just sitting on their investments. “FOR SALE” signs are everywhere, and even more new and bigger condos are being built.

As previous articles to this website have suggested, a certain amount of growth is good for tourism development and good for Costa Rica, but one of the drawbacks is that the local infrastructure was not built to handle the demand. Nor was the electricity grid built to sustain perhaps a 100% increase in the actual number of buildings in Playa del Coco since 2003.

Costa Rica Tries to Control Tourism Development

Thirty years ago villages and towns in Mexico, particularly those on the coast such as Cancun, Cozumel and Puerto Villarta became tourist destinations. Following in the footsteps of Acapulco, multinational hotel chains came in from all over the world and the natural landscape was changed forever.

The Caribbean Islands have travelled the same route and have experienced the same kind of growth. Overdevelopment is a term that has often been applied to this rapid growth; however, the countries that have taken this route always justify their decisions.

However, we know for a fact that a country like Mexico has more poor people than it did when the tourist boom started, and since they joined NAFTA with the United States and Canada in 1989, the gap between the rich and the poor is larger than ever, and the tourist industry continues to grow, unabated.

The reasons that a country gives to open its doors to the multinational tourist giants, such as: the Four Seasons, Melia, Holiday Inn, Occidental, Hilton, Radisson and others is that they bring wealth and economic growth to the country. It is true that many jobs are open to the local people in the construction phases, and in the hospitality and service industries that follow.

However, the question is whether the foothold that the tourist giants acquire and the huge profits that that make, is balanced by fair compensation to the countries and the local people. This is not a new question and has been asked many times in the past. However, the result is usually the same: the local people are taken advantage at every turn and are becoming poorer even though they see all the wealth around them.

Costa Rica at a Crossroads in Tourism Development

When you leave North America on a trip to Central America you leave the cold weather behind, and that’s always nice, but you have to leave many of your expectations there as well.

It’s a good idea to forget what you have come to expect at home, and to take life in stride here in small bites.

Life in North America is based on consumerism, speed, and efficiency. Working people rush from place to place every day in an effort to keep up. There’s a lot of pressure on people to meet the needs of others, so it becomes a vicious circle. Everyone goes flat out. The benefits of such an economic system are that deadlines are met and work is accomplished.

Here in Costa Rica the priorities of the local people are at odds with the expectations of the main industry, the tourism industry that is the largest contributor to GDP and brings millions of dollars of revenue into the country each year.

Discovering the Treasures of Turkey

A recent trip to Turkey was a reminder to those of us who live in the youthful ‘western world’, just how inspirational a trip to the ‘old world’ can be.

Our 15-day ‘Insight Vacation’ tour to Turkey combined beautiful and diverse scenery, history and archeology dating back to the Stone Age, religion and culture, with daily briefings from a tour guide that could have substituted for a university credit course in history.

Our remarkably compatible group of Australians, Canadians and Americans came together at the five star Conrad Hotel where the dignitaries of the world meet when they come to Istanbul- a legendary city of 15 million people and part of two continents, Europe and Asia.

After a meeting with guide Atakan Acar who would provide exemplary service for the next 13 days, we fought through the jet lag of an 8 hour time change, and started the next day with a boat ride on the Bosphorus Canal and our first look at Istanbul.

On the European side of the canal at its narrowest point, the formidable Fortress of Europe has dominated the landscape since 1452 when Istanbul(Constantinople) was invaded by the Ottomans, whose empire survived until WW1. Along the shore are many beautiful mansions and palaces of the Ottoman sultans and glimpses of a few of the 2,000 mosques of Istanbul.

The Blue Mosque is one of the most famous religious buildings in the world, and was considered sacrilegious by Muslims in the 17th century because of its attempt to rival Mecca. Turkey’s population of 70 million is about 97% Muslim, with pockets of Christian denominations in the larger cities. It is estimated that only a minority of Turks, about 25%, practice their religion by attending the mosque.

One should not leave Istanbul without seeing the Topkapi Palace, today a legacy of the opulent sultans from the Ottoman empire. The palace includes a Harem, which at its peak contained over 1,000 concubines- young women and wives who served the sultans’ pleasure.

Turkey is about the size of Quebec and is located midway between the North Pole and the equator; its coastal borders are the Black Sea to the north, the Aegan Sea to the west and the Mediterranean to the south. Our bus tour focused on the western and south/central part of Turkey, stopping in 9 cities while logging 3,000 km.

Bursa, a city of 3,000 thermal baths and more tombs and mosques than any other city in Turkey, was the first capital of the Ottoman empire in 1326. Further afield, in the rural Anatolia region, we visited the open air, monumental tomb of King Midas discovered only in 1953 and dating back to the 5th century BC. According to legend, Midas became miserable after being awarded the ‘golden touch’ by the Greek God Dionysus, and was granted a second wish that cancelled the first, thereby rejecting materialism.

Mountain ranges are Turkey’s most distinctive geological feature, with snow caps in the higher elevations until late spring. Much of Turkey lies in an active tectonic zone, and the country has a long history of earthquakes. South of the Taurus mountains, balmy temperatures prevail along the Mediterranean and Aegean coastlines.

Perhaps the most bewitching scenery in Turkey is the Cappadocia region of Central Anatolia, its surface comprised of hardened volcanic ash which blankets the region. The solidified ash, called ‘tuff,’ has eroded over thousands of centuries and has created distinctive formations called ‘fairy chimneys,’ reminiscent of a Walt Disney movie.

Adding more intrigue to the landscape, entire underground cities were carved out of tuff, complete with living quarters, wells, ventilation systems and churches. The Goreme Open Air Museum has been declared a world heritage site, featuring 30 or more rock-cut churches dating back to the 9th century. It is a truly remarkable site.

Outside of Ankara, the capital, we passed a military base. Owing to its strategic location in the middle east, and the instability of neighbouring countries, Turkey has invested heavily in the military. Since the country became independent in 1923, and the revered Mustafa Ataturk became its first president, the country has had a policy of conscription for all young men. Ataturk was best known for his integrity and style, and of enacting sweeping reforms to modernize the country.

One of Islam’s greatest mystics was Mevlana, a 13th century liberal mystic who believed in universal love and spiritual union. The order he founded, known as the “Whirling Dervishes,” incorporated music and dance to create a trance-like state and thereby liberate the consciousness of the individual. A museum near Konya documents the history of this offshoot of Islam.

Getting closer to the Mediterranean, we came across what looked like small, 13th century fortresses. These early hostels known as ‘caravanserais’, were used by travelling merchants, and contained accommodations, stables, Turkish baths and a small mosque. The social welfare system of the day encouraged trade in this way to expand the Ottoman empire.

The great acropolis of Pergammon settled by the Greeks in the 8th century BC is one of the most dramatic sights in Turkey. The theatre of the ancient city was constructed on a hill and has seating for 10,000 people. The walls of the city extend about 4 km. enclosing the entire hilltop, and making it easily defendable.

After spending two nights at the superb Sheraton Hotel in Antalya, we made our way towards Pumukkale, which means “cotton castle” in the Turkish language. From a distance the white terraced landforms look surreal, resembling an abandoned ski hill. The limestone terraces are formed by nearby hot springs.

The next few days became the historical pinnacle of our trip. The site of Aphrodisias dates back to 5800 BC when Neolothic farmers worshipped at the site. The stadium at Aphrodisias is one of the best preserved structures of its kind from the classical era.

Another site, Ephesus, is one of the greatest ruins in the world. First a Greek city in 1000 BC, it was developed later by the Romans as a port on the Aegean and then became an important Christian centre. St. Paul spread the gospel in this part of Turkey, and the Virgin Mary is said to have spent her last days in the area.

As our tour moved north back to Istanbul, we crossed the famed Dardanelles Strait, and climbed the Gallipoli Peninsula, the site of one of the bloodiest campaigns of WW1. Thwarting the Allied campaign to seize the strategic Dardanelles, Turkish soldiers successfully defended their territory for 9 months despite huge casualties on both sides.

Our final day in Istanbul was a blur. So much more to see and so little time.

However, after 14 days in Turkey, we acquired a wealth of historical and cultural information that in many ways was overwhelming. This spectacular country and its friendly people had made a lasting impression on us.

In the end we need to remind ourselves that the present is a mere blip on the radar screen of existence, and that an infinite amount of knowledge about our ancestors is just waiting to be discovered.

Insight Vacations tour package was arranged for Kevin and Adele Parkinson, William and Judy Studnicki of Cornwall, Ontario by CAA Travel, CAA North & East Ontario.